When your new door arrives make sure it's correct and what you ordered before you take it home. If your having it installed your installers usually don’t know what you’ve ordered and can only take a quick look at it cosmetically. While your there remember to buy a new lock, deadbolt and any other hardware you may need. When purchasing new locks they will usually re-key the new ones to match your existing locks. You can get them re-keyed only if they are the same key ways. You can also get some shims, low expansion foam insulation and a good paintable urethane caulk. We use 2 1/2" to 3" #8 galvanized or brass drywall screws to fasten the new door and frame. You can also use 3 1/2" sinker nails if you wish. You just have to be careful not to dent the frame. We use a nail set that goes over the nail to prevent any damage.
The first thing to do ounce your home is lay out a drop cloth and tear out the old door and frame. Remove the inside trim carefully so you can reuse it later. If it’s in tough shape you can buy it in pre-cut packs at any of the DIY stores. Remove the door and hinges with all other existing frame hardware. Then remove any screen or storm door on the exterior side along with the doorbell. You must now tear off the outside brickmould (BM) pieces from the frame. You must be very careful here because if you don't pay attention you can damage your interior sheetrock or plaster. Take a sharp utility knife and cut the caulking away from the BM. Be careful not to cut the vinyl “J Bead” or steel siding in the process. Some of the older caulks are almost impossible to cut and some damage is almost inevitable. If you don't you can pull the exterior finish off with the BM.
Starting at the bottom hit a flat bar in between the BM and existing frame. Start prying the BM from the bottom up. When this was applied they usually used 3 - 1/2" galvanized nails, which really don’t like to pull out. As you’re prying the BM off make sure the frame stays in place and the top doesn't start moving inward. If it does make sure it doesn't crack the sheetrock on the inside. You must really watch this so there is no damage to the sheetrock. If it gets difficult you may want to get a reciprocating saw to go behind the BM and just cut all the nails. DON'T CUT THE DOOR BELL WIRES!! Ounce you've removed all the BM on all three sides the frame is ready to push out. You just go inside and start pushing the frame out top first. Just look down to make sure the flooring isn't sealed to the sill board or a transition strip. If it is, just cut it back with a utility knife or pull it out with a hammer. Most the time the old subsill board goes out with the frame. If it does then you need to cut it off and clean it up to nail it back to the subfloor. Most of the older homes have a nice piece of White Oak in this spot. I usually run it through a planer and clean it up if I can. If not it's time for a new treated 1x10 or Cedar 1x8 deck board works. You can also use a Pine 2x10 if it needs to be painted to match. There is no code stating what it should be made of. Most the time it’s just a Pine board or treated when going on concrete. It's really up to you to make sure your installer knows what you want before you start. It is important that you use something that will handle the elements in your climate. If you have any kind of overhang then you can really get by with anything. Ounce you get the old door and frame removed measure the rough opening (RO). If you need to downsize the opening to fit the frame this will dictate what you can use as a sill board. So ounce you've figured this out and have the RO to size it’s clean up time. Pound in the nails hanging out and remove any screws, insulation and old shims. Carefully cut your interior sheetrock or plaster back flush to the jack studs and header on the inside. This space is needed for shimming and new insulation. Sweep the area and clean up all the old debris. If not you'll be tripping all over it and tracking dirt in the house if you don't!
Before you install the new frame you must install a “Drip Cap” or “Flashing” if the door is in an area that will see water coming down over the frame. If the frame is covered by the eve and probably won’t ever see water it’s not that important. Check your city codes to make sure. This will slide up behind the siding and be attached to the exterior wallboard. Now lets dry fit the new door and frame to make sure it will fit in the opening with no problem. When this is in place the inside should have at least quarter inch gaps or bigger on each side and across the top. You can get smaller but you need to leave enough room for insulation and shims. If your good here just slide the door back out for a moment. You now need to get a seal under the new unit. We use 100% silicone because it works all year round. Try and lay out two or three close rows of 3/8" beads across the bottom sill board. Now set the new door and frame in place with out scraping up a bunch of sealant. If you scrape some up just wipe it off the frame with a rag right away. Now most the time the sill is very close to level. If not, you’re going to have to shim up one side or the other. I usually put a level on the hinge side and shim it in place as needed. We put shims behind each hinge and similar locations on the lock side. If your shimmed right door lock mortises should line up across from one another. So bend down and make sure your door lock mortises and deadbolt mortises are lined up from door to frame. Your reveals should also be set in place. The reveal is the gap between the door and frame when the door is in the closed position. The ideal gap is around an eighth of an inch down each side and across the head. The door should swing open and close freely. It should not self-close if you let go of the door.
If you have everything set in place then it’s time to secure the frame. You nail or screw through the BM into the wallboard and studs behind them. If you nail the frame then remember to leave them around a half inch out incase you need to remove them. Secure all four corners one at a time while checking your reveals between each fastener. There are many myths about the reveals and how square or level your doorframe should be. Never use a square on the frame and only use a level on the bottom and maybe the hinge side. The only way these tools can really be efficient is if your house is perfectly level and square. We all know that’s not possible in most homes. The new frame must be installed to fit the house. Meaning it has to be adjusted to fit your walls and latch. Most the time it’s not going to be level in some places.
Now close the door and make sure the door evenly touches the weather stripping up and down. If you have a wall that is out of level you will need to adjust the frame to fit. You may have to pound the frame corners in or out to accommodate this. The best way to do this is by removing the weatherseal from the frame and let the door close to the wooden jamb. This way you can really adjust the door to fit perfectly. If the door edge hits the bottom of the frame first, then the top must go in or the bottom out. You'll have to play with it here, as it's hard to put in words. Ounce you push it in or out you’ll see what I mean. Ounce you’ve reached the desired position then secure the inside. Put your security screws through the hinges and shims into the studs. Don't over tighten the screws, as it will move the door inside the frame. The screws should go through each open hole and snug against the hinges. You can now screw down the strike side the same way. We hide the screws behind the weatherseal so you can't see them. You must be very careful when doing this as you can move the frame out of its reveal.
You can now install the hardware and make sure it locks and functions. If you have an adjustable threshold under the door it's also time to adjust this. You just turn the screws and push the door across so it feels faintly snug. Don't make it rub hard or you'll end up tearing off the bottom fins of the sweep. Here's where you need to drill the hole and re-install the doorbell wire. Be careful not to break these off. They are hard to re-pull! You now need to insulate the gaps around the frame with foam. When using foam allow room for expansion. If you don't you'll have expanding foam pouring out everywhere. If it does just let it dry and cut it back. Install the inside trim and storm door and your done.
Important Note: If you live in a Northern climate that has warm and cold temperatures like here in Minnesota. Don’t use wood on your exterior door! We have never seen one yet last very long or even get any kind of a warranty. The manufacturers always find a way out of the warranty. It will be one of the worst choices you’ll ever make. They have nothing but issues from beginning to end. Most importantly try not to tell the Pro’s doing your work how to do their job. Usually when you do it only makes you look like a fool! Believe them and take their word as great advice. You’ll be very happy you did!
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